[gentle acoustic guitar music] ♪ Porte des Morts ♪ ♪ The Frenchmen called it ♪ ♪ And the English called it Door ♪ ♪ But the Indians thus had named it ♪ ♪ In the ages long before ♪ ♪ Pilot Island to the southward ♪ ♪ And Plum Island in the Door ♪ ♪ With their beacons and their sirens ♪ ♪ Sound a warning evermore ♪ ♪ But Detroit another island ♪ ♪ With its graves all in a row ♪ ♪ Now is like an ancient Flanders ♪ ♪ Where the arbor vitaes grow ♪ ♪ Washington called Huron Island ♪ ♪ Paradise beyond the door ♪ ♪ Had an Indian population ♪ ♪ Of a thousand souls or more ♪ - Narrator: In the heart of Lake Michigan, within the coastal waters of Wisconsin, lies a passage between the Door County peninsula and a few small islands.

Through this waterway have passed the largest lake ships and the smallest pleasure craft.

On a warm day when the water's calm, it's a beautiful cruise, about a mile and a half from the mainland to Washington Island.

But when the north wind batters the waves against the cliffs, when the current churns against the jagged shoals, then this passage takes on the name given it by those who have known its violence.

By the French, Porte des Morts.

By the English, the Door of Death.

The captain of a schooner at the turn of the century found an ominous warning in the official navigational description of Death's Door.

- There is a strong current setting in or out according to the direction of the wind, and many vessels have been lost in consequence.

It is frequently so strong that sailing vessels cannot make headway against it.

The coast is rock-bound, and certain destruction awaits the craft going ashore.

Sometimes, the current is against the wind.

- There are many tales of the ships and men who have entered Death's Door.

Stories of heroism, of destruction, of the awful power of nature.

Through telling and retelling, some stories have grown bigger than life, evolving and changing with the different generations who have passed them down.

But now, there is one thing certain.

Throughout the years, Death's Door has earned its name and kept the legends alive.

The French explorers were the first to record their encounter with Porte des Morts.

Here it was, according to early legend, where La Salle's Griffon met her fate in 1680.

She was the first foreign vessel to sail the waters of Lake Michigan, and the first, it is said, to sink in the Door, going down with a fortune of rare hides and furs.

But before the French or the English or the Yankees sailed the Great Lakes, Native Americans passed through the Door of Death.

Many tragic accounts of those passages have been handed down.

And although the tribes and the circumstances and the number of casualites changes with each retelling, one theme runs throughout all the differing legends of how Death's Door earned its name.

It was the scene of a great Indian tragedy.

In 1831, Samuel Stambaugh, the U.S.-Indian agent at Green Bay, wrote down one version of the Indian legend.

- A band of Indians in canoes on their way to some of the French trading posts, halted at the place for the purpose of resting and relaxing and taking of some refreshment.

While they were seated on their table of rock, which projected about three feet over the surface of the water, a storm arose suddenly, which swept over their rock a tremendous sea.

It dashed their canoes to pieces.

The Indians were tossed into the roaring seas, and they all perished.

- A simple story, told first by the French.

But was this account the basis for the naming of Porte des Morts?

Another very different version has been recorded by H.R.

Holand in his book Old Peninsula Days.

It's "The Legend of the Indian Battle and the Naming of the Door of Death."

[gentle flute music] - Storyteller: The Potowatomis who lived on the northern peninsula were driven to the surrounding islands by the warring Winnebagos.

The Potowatomi chiefs then decided they must counterattack.

The plan was to send three spies to the mainland across the Door.

When conditions were right for a flank attack, they were to light a signal fire on a bluff to guide the warriors to a safe landing.

[water lapping] These spies fell into the hands of the Winnebagos.

[warriors whooping] Two were killed, and the one remaining was tortured until he revealed the plan.

The Winnebagos now planned to turn the tables on their enemies.

On a dark and windy night, they lit a fire on a nearby bluff.

They would lead the Potowatomis to a certain destruction on the rocks below.

When the Potowatomis saw the signal fire, they cast off.

At the same time, the Winnebagos sent a party of warriors across the Door to wipe out the unprotected Potowatomi camp.

In the time it took to cross the Door, a violent storm came up, and both parties were caught in the blow.

When the Potowatomis reached the shore, their canoes were crushed against the rocks by the gale.

[waves crashing] Only 30 braves were able to cling to the exposed roots and reach a shelf of rocks just out of reach of the waves.

Standing there between the roaring sea and the fierce Winnebagos, they chanted their death song.

[brisk flute and drum music] The Winnebagos then jumped down to the ledge.

The battle was on.

But while the two tribes fought, a huge wave came out of the stormy deep and sucked the fighting warriors off the ledge, into the sea.

They all perished.

The canoe party of the Winnebagos fared no better.

Their canoes, one by one, were swamped, and they all were drowned.

The remaining Winnebagos waited a whole day for their victorious canoe party to return.

When they saw the wreckage of the canoes drift to shore, they understood what had happened, and that their brethren had perished in the storm.

The Indians took this as an omen that they must never attempt to cross the Door of Death.

- This stretch of water had been given a name.

The Door of Death was a warning to all sailors who ventured into the passage in the centuries that followed.

But the Door could not be avoided.

The fashion market of the East demanded furs for stylish clothing.

The nation demanded lumber for the expanding cities and towns.

The Wisconsin Territory had the resources.

The fastest method of moving the cargo was by ship.

And Death's Door was by far the shortest route to all the major ports along Green Bay.

And so vessels of all sizes and classes had to pass through the Door of Death on their way to ports throughout the Great Lakes.

♪ My boys if you will listen ♪ ♪ I'll sing to you a song ♪ ♪ So sit you down beside me ♪ ♪ I won't detain ya long ♪ ♪ In Milwaukee last October ♪ ♪ I chanced to work my way ♪ ♪ On the timber haulin' Bigler ♪ ♪ A'sailin' to Green Bay ♪ ♪ The wind came up that night my boys ♪ ♪ It blew both stiff and strong ♪ ♪ As swiftly through Lake Michigan ♪ ♪ The Bigler plowed along ♪ ♪ And far below her foamin' bow ♪ ♪ The dashing waves she'd fling ♪ ♪ With every stitch of canvas ♪ ♪ Setting the courses wing to wing ♪ ♪ Oh, it's watch her, catch her ♪ ♪ Jump on a juberju ♪ ♪ Give her a sheet and let her boil ♪ ♪ The boys will pull her through ♪ ♪ You oughta hear her howlin' ♪ ♪ When the wind was blowing free ♪ ♪ On her passage down to Green Bay ♪ ♪ From Milwaukee ♪ ♪ We entered Porte des Morts that night ♪ ♪ I heard the captain say ♪ ♪ Batten down the hatches, boys ♪ ♪ Or we'll never make Green Bay ♪ ♪ And keep a watchful eye ahead ♪ ♪ No matter whatcha do ♪ ♪ For the signal light of Pilot Island ♪ ♪ Is bound to get us through ♪ ♪ Oh, it's watch her, catch her ♪ ♪ Jump on a juberju ♪ ♪ Give her a sheet and let her boil ♪ ♪ The boys will pull her through ♪ ♪ You oughta hear her howlin' ♪ ♪ When the wind was blowing free ♪ ♪ On her passage down to Green Bay ♪ ♪ From Milwaukee ♪ ♪ The northeast wind blew strong and cold ♪ ♪ Our sails we did trim ♪ ♪ As waves crashed o'er the foamin' bow ♪ ♪ Our fate was lookin' grim ♪ ♪ We kept a strong and steady course ♪ ♪ For the waters of Green Bay ♪ ♪ And we're still alive to tell this tale ♪ ♪ And sail another day ♪ ♪ Whoa, it's watch her, catch her ♪ ♪ Jump on a juberju ♪ ♪ Give her a sheet and let her boil ♪ ♪ The boys will pull her through ♪ ♪ You oughta hear her howlin' ♪ ♪ You oughta hear her howlin' ♪ ♪ When the wind was blowing free ♪ ♪ On her passage down to Green Bay ♪ ♪ From Milwaukee ♪ - Most cargo would reach eastern ports.

But the cost in men and ships was staggering.

In 1872, nearly 100 vessels were lost or seriously damaged while trying to pass through Death's Door.

In the fall of that year, eight vessels were stranded or shipwrecked in one week.

And on October 15 of that same year, 30 ships were driven ashore.

And the losses would continue.

Nearly as many ships were wrecked in the attempts to avoid the passage as those lost in the Door itself.

They ran for shelter to nearby harbors only to be driven back by the overpowering wind and currents.

Other ships tried the passage, but they were forced back also.

The elements were so overwhelming.

Dr. John J. Sherman of Marinette, Michigan told of his near disaster.

- In November of 1853, we left Chicago in an old lumber brig under full sail and with a stiff south breeze.

Early on the second night out, we were at Porte des Morts, Death's Door.

As we were about to enter the Door, a stiff wind came up out of the northwest and the old brig failed to come about.

And so we went within 25 feet of the Door bluffs.

Upon reaching the open lake, we scurried under bare poles all the way back to Milwaukee.

There, the wind abated sufficiently to enable the captain to hoist sail and to set forth again for Green Bay.

- For the captain and crew of a great wooden ship, there could be no mistakes passing through the Door.

On the night of September 26, 1888, the schooner Fleetwing made the passage.

Her last.

The night was dark.

The captain brought her around to the east, into what he thought was open water beyond the Door.

She sailed on, but there was no sign of the lights of Plum or Pilot Islands.

The Fleetwing was off course.

The captain had mistaken Death's Door Bluff for Table Bluff.

Now he saw the truth too late.

Before the crew could bring her about, she stove hard on the rock beach of Garrett Bay.

But even if the ship were sound, the crew alert, the Door of Death might bring them down.

On November 7, 1914, the schooner Resumption left Chicago with her last cargo for the season.

She reached Porte des Morts in a heavy gale.

The crew tried to bring her about, but she failed to come into the wind.

Before the anchors could be lowered, she was blown high and dry on the shoals of Plum Island.

Later, four ships pulled to free her.

But it was no use.

The proud Resumption was finally abandoned, a total loss.

The men and ships that braved the passage through Death's Door had a right to be proud.

They had weathered storms and sailed with a skill that is now all but forgotten.

Gradually, as the 20th century unfolded, the Great Lakes saw more and more ships of steel, steamships, not at the mercy of a change of wind.

But the Door of Death could still rise from its legendary shadows to deal a lethal blow.

In the annals of shipping history, one of the most disastrous storms to hit the Great Lakes was a gale of hurricane force that began on November 8, 1913 and raged until the night of November 11.

In those three days, the losses of ships and lives on the Great Lakes were devastating.

Twenty ships totally wrecked, 71 vessels severely damaged, 248 sailors dead.

The awful truth behind the ancient Indian legends of the Door of Death had once again broken into history.

And throughout the years, the mournful roll call of ships lost in the Door has kept the legend alive.

♪ Oh, Lord, I had prayed ♪ ♪ That on that night ♪ ♪ My lover rested safe ♪ ♪ While the Hampton sailed on ♪ ♪ Through the dark on Michigan Lake ♪ ♪ Somehow I understood ♪ ♪ That my prayers could bring only good ♪ ♪ But my soul finds no saving grace ♪ ♪ In the twisted wood ♪ ♪ The storm was one day gone ♪ ♪ When word reached me something was wrong ♪ ♪ That night, I waited by the fire ♪ ♪ All alone ♪ ♪ The moon left, morning came ♪ ♪ But in my heart was left the nighttime's pain ♪ ♪ They came and told me ♪ ♪ You rest now beneath the waves ♪ [somber acoustic guitar music] ♪ ♪ ♪ Father dear, I'd like to be alone forever, I fear ♪ ♪ I can't pretend to be alive ♪ ♪ Without him near ♪ ♪ Each day, I walk upon the sand ♪ ♪ Where he and I once stood hand in hand ♪ ♪ Oh yes, I've prayed ♪ ♪ But I will never understand ♪ ♪ The sun has no right to shine on me ♪ ♪ The cursed wind, now it's trying to be my friend ♪ ♪ The waves touch my feet ♪ ♪ But won't bring him back to me ♪ ♪ Lake be damned ♪ ♪ For it brought my lover's end ♪ - The lighthouses on Death's Door have witnessed more shipwrecks than any others on the Great Lakes.

Their beacons the first to shine, their foghorn the first to sound the warning.

The crews of many wrecked vessels owe their lives to the lighthouse keepers and the gallant men of the lifesaving service.

Such is the story of the A.P.

Nichols and the lightkeeper, Martin Knudsen.

Many times, he felt the power of the wind and the sea crashing against his lone lighthouse on Pilot Island.

But he was not afraid.

- November 9, 1892 it was.

The schooner A.P.

Nichols tried the Door passage and was forced back.

It tried again, but it was no use.

It turned and ran for shelter here under the lee of Plum Island.

It dropped anchor, but it didn't work.

The force of the storm drove it on the rocks down below.

I looked out and I saw the waves break clear over the ship, and I knew that if I didn't act, and quickly, the crew would be lost.

I got some of the boys who were staying here with Ma and me, and we went out into the gale.

Out onto the rocks.

We waded out onto the shoals by the foundering Nichols and got the crew off.

With ropes, one by one, we led them back through neck-deep water.

I knew each one of the rocks we were walking on.

But I don't mind telling you I was more than a little afraid that night.

- Martin Knudsen and a handful of men saved the captain, the crew, and the passenger of the A.P.

Nichols from certain death that night.

The captain later said, "It's a wonder how Knudsen was able to find his way "along the ledge in that darkness of night.

He is the bravest man I have ever seen."

When the shipping season closes and winter spreads a sheet of ice over the dark waters of the Door, a new danger threatens.

The islanders must cross to the mainland over a bridge of ice.

But beneath the bridge are violent currents that eat away at the cover of ice.

And the freezing water waits beneath this thin cover for those who make the passage, but will never be seen again.

Others who have made this cold crossing have escaped with their lives.

But one man paid a terrible price.

And his story has formed a new legend from the Door of Death.

It is the story of a man who left his love on Washington Island to return home to the mainland.

It is the story of Robert Noble.

♪ Robert Noble's leaving from Washington Island ♪ ♪ It was New Year's Eve in 1863 ♪ ♪ His boat struck ice ♪ ♪ So he had to land on Plum Island ♪ ♪ It was the coldest day in Door County history ♪ ♪ Robert Noble, your trip was doomed from the beginning ♪ ♪ It appears to be that Lady Luck wasn't on your side ♪ ♪ Robert Noble that trip made you a legend and a hero ♪ ♪ Because a lesser man than you woulda surely died ♪ ♪ 'Cause a lesser man than you woulda surely died ♪ ♪ He had one match to build a fire to warm his body ♪ ♪ But the snow in the chimney melted ♪ ♪ And the fire went out ♪ ♪ The winds blew cold as the night closed in around him ♪ ♪ He peered into the darkness with a growing doubt ♪ ♪ Robert Noble your trip was doomed from the beginning ♪ ♪ It appears to be that Lady Luck wasn't on your side ♪ ♪ Robert Noble that trip made you a legend and a hero ♪ ♪ Because a lesser man than you woulda surely died ♪ ♪ Because a lesser man than you woulda surely died ♪ - Narrator: Noble knew he couldn't long survive on the deserted island without food or warmth.

He started back toward Detroit Island a half mile away through the slush, ice, and bitter cold.

He reached his boat and strapped the seats to his feet to carry his weight over the thin ice, but he fell through again and again.

Groping to stay above the water, he struggled on.

He reached Detroit Island, but there was no help.

He must again cross through the ice, back to Washington Island.

Now, there was no feeling in his arms and legs.

Only the heavy weight of the ice that formed a deadly white cloak over his body.

He drove himself on, across the Door of Death, until he reached, with frozen fingers, the shore of Washington Island.

♪ Noble had to cross the ice of Detroit Island ♪ ♪ But twice he fell into the water tryna find the way ♪ ♪ In the end, he used his arms to break a passage ahead ♪ ♪ And he pulled himself to land on the final day ♪ ♪ Robert Noble your trip was doomed from the beginning ♪ ♪ It appears to be that Lady Luck wasn't on your side ♪ ♪ Robert Noble that trip made you a legend and a hero ♪ ♪ Because a lesser man than you woulda surely died ♪ ♪ A lesser man than you woulda surely died ♪ - Narrator: Robert Noble was near death when he reached the hut of a fisherman that night.

His hands and feet were frozen beyond hope.

For the next five months, he lay in agony on Washington Island, fighting to stay alive.

It was in June before a visiting doctor with makeshift instruments could amputate his severely frostbitten legs and fingers.

Robert Noble had faced the Door of Death and lived.

In later years, he would fit himself with artificial limbs and operate a ferry boat service across Sturgeon Bay.

Porte des Morts had destroyed or crippled many men and ships over its long, devastating history.

Gradually, new developments lessened the dangers of crossing the Door.

Electronic navigational devices.

Larger, more powerful ships.

More accurate weather reporting.

But every year, the Coast Guard is called on to rescue novice sailors in small craft who have taken the legends and stories of Death's Door to be only myths and unfounded tales.

And with every mishap of these present-day seamen, ship's galleys and seaport pubs ring with the telling and retelling of the legends and stories of the early ships and their crews, lying on the bottom in Porte des Morts.

The Door of Death.

♪ Ships have come and the ships have gone ♪ ♪ And there's bound to be many more ♪ ♪ Many men have died and people cried ♪ ♪ Over tragedies in the Door ♪ ♪ But good men must make their living ♪ ♪ And travel to distant ports ♪ ♪ As long as seas are meant for sailing ♪ ♪ They'll be passing through Death's Door ♪ [gentle banjo music]